Rediscovering a Hidden History: The Yemeni Village Eclipsed by Time
Why did Yemenite Jews find themselves living in the shadows of rocky Jerusalem hills, and what documents surfaced in an obscure basement? Gadi Bashari, chairman of the Kfar Shiloach Council, leads us through the historic alleys.
The synagogue in the Yemenite Village post-1938 riots. Inset: Attorney Gadi Bashari In East Jerusalem, nestled within Silwan, lies the Yemenite Village. Among its winding, steep slopes and deep valleys are the ancient homes where the elders of the Yemenite community once resided. Surrounded by Ras al-Amud on one side and Jabel Mukaber on the other, the village is deeply set within the mountain, seemingly guarding historical memories long forgotten. Since Attorney Gadi Bashari took on the role of chairman of the Kfar Shiloach Council, he has tirelessly shared the story of the Yemenite Village. "It was the first Yemenite neighborhood established in Israel, but it vanished from historical records, so much so that it is scarcely mentioned in the Zionist history of the state," he shares with palpable sadness. Living in Caves The neighborhood's tale begins in 1881 with the first wave of Yemenite Jews to the land, known as the "Oleh Betamar." Initially residing in Jerusalem's Old City, their dire economic situation forced them out of their homes, unable even to rent further, leading them into the unknown. Upon reaching the slopes of the Mount of Olives, they discovered caves embedded in the hillside, which, out of necessity, they entered to live in. "Back then, the Turks ruled Jerusalem, and they would go house to house, conscripting Jewish residents. Living in these caves was a way to escape forced conscription into the Turkish army," Bashari explains. "Life in the caves was incredibly tough. These were dank, airless caves, yet they had to maintain normal family life. We can imagine the darkness at night making the caves a frightening place. But the Yemenite Jews' desire to live near the Temple site overcame every hardship. This longing brought them to Israel perilously and sustained them through hours of suffering, all to be as close as possible to the Temple site." Are those caves still around today? "The entire area has totally transformed. Silwan has expanded, and its Arab residents have built many homes. The once mountainous terrain is now covered by these developments, burying the history beneath, and as of now, not a single cave has been documented." Facing Exile Once Again A few years later, when Jewish pioneers in the Land of Israel, led by Israel Dov Frumkin, observed the dire conditions of the cave-dwelling Yemenite immigrants, they established a neighborhood for them. This neighborhood was called "Yemenite Village," more commonly known as "Kfar Shiloach." "The village grew and flourished until over a hundred families lived there. The residents enjoyed a peaceful community life, making it the central residential area for Yemenite immigrants in Israel, particularly in Jerusalem." During the Great Arab Revolt (1936-1939), Arab rioters destroyed many neighborhoods in Jerusalem and throughout the country. The Yemenite Village residents also suffered from local Arab violence, during which Shlomo Madmoni was murdered while trying to save the community's ancient Torah scroll. Instructed by the British authorities, who refused to protect the village residents, the Jews left their homes and possessions and scattered. "Some moved to other Jerusalem neighborhoods being developed, while others relocated to settlements in central Israel that were in the process of being established." This is like experiencing exile all over again. "Exactly. To make matters worse, there wasn't another concentrated Yemenite community in the country at the time, forcing them to integrate into communities that were foreign to them and their customs. This all happened before the founding of the state and before the establishment of Yemenite neighborhoods across the country as we see today. Hence, one of Israel's largest Yemenite Jewish communities vanished." Sounding the Shofar in a Palestinian Village In central Silwan, at the heart of the Palestinian neighborhood of Batn al-Hawa, stands the ancient Yemenite synagogue. It was destroyed and looted during the Great Arab Revolt, and its Torah scroll desecrated. In the following years, a local Arab family took up residence there. However, in 2015, after a prolonged legal battle, the court ordered its return to its Jewish owners. Thus, 77 years after its abandonment, it returned to Jewish hands. "This is the only neighborhood synagogue remaining from that era," says Bashari. "In recent years, Jewish settlement in the area has been revitalized, leading to the establishment of new synagogues and study halls. However, the Yemenite synagogue is the sole survivor from those days." Are the Yemenite customs still observed there? "That question holds much pain. From the departure of the Yemenite Jews until now, no prayers in the original Yemenite style have occurred. Recently, an exciting initiative has emerged with a Selichot event occurring once a year, attracting many community members who come to sing and pray in the Yemenite tradition. At the conclusion of Selichot, a shofar is sounded, and many participants pull out their shofars and join in a lengthy ceremonial blast." Due to the complex security situation in the area, the annual event is heavily guarded by police forces. "Even entry to the village is through bulletproof buses, ensuring the attendees travel back and forth safely." Documents in a Basement Under the public aegis of the Kfar Shiloach Council, headed by Bashari, numerous heritage events take place annually. One such event commemorates Moshe David Gaon, father of singer and creator Yehoram Gaon, who in his public roles, urged the British administration to protect the neighborhood's assets from Arab looting. Prominent rabbis and public figures attend the yearly event. Another recent event features a document exhibition chronicling the lives of Jews in the Yemenite Village. "These historical documents contain reports and confirmations related to the Jewish residents, mostly signed by the village head who effectively led both spiritually and administratively." Where did you find these documents? "By sheer chance, a Jerusalem family reached out to me, revealing they found a box filled with old documents in a dark, dingy basement. When I saw these documents, I discovered authentic testimonials about the Jewish life in the village. It was incredibly moving and surprising," Bashari recounts. "To preserve this heritage, we presented them in a special exhibit, ensuring the Jewish life of the Yemenite village, once thriving but no more, is not forgotten."
עברית
