Living Jewishly in Panama: A Touch of Israel in Central America

What does Panama mean to you?

"A tiny country with about three million people and a land area three times that of Israel. It boasts a close-knit and unique community that truly embodies 'love your neighbor as yourself', with so much kindness and generosity."

Why did you decide to live there?

"My husband and I are Argentine, and our older twin daughters were born there. Twenty-three years ago, when we were still young parents, an old teacher suggested we take on a mission in Panama. At first, I said 'no', but she insisted, and my husband thought it might be suitable for a short time. We hardly knew where Panama was and had to look it up on a map. After some research, we decided to try it for a year or two. Little did we know we'd still be here today."

"The start was challenging: adapting to a new place, unfamiliar faces, and a different mentality. The community was smaller then, but wonderful. Everyone was growing and progressing, and we loved our work as teachers - I at the girls' school, my husband at the boys' school and the yeshiva. Our children were born here in Panama, one after another, and we didn't want to uproot them from their lives. That's how we ended up staying without initially planning to, loving the place and thanking Hashem for bringing us to this special community."

View from the Muafra family's home with the Pacific Ocean in the distance

Is there a Jewish community there?

"We have a beautiful community called 'Kehillat Shabbat Achim', encompassing three synagogues in different neighborhoods. The community, founded by Rabbi Tzion Levy ztz"l, who studied with Rabbi Ovadia Yosef ztz"l, agreed to stay unified with just one community under his guidance. We also have an Ashkenazi synagogue, and the Panama City community is known for its harmony and philanthropy. Many emissaries come here and are warmly welcomed, with gemachim for Israeli brides."

"In times of joy and sorrow, everyone helps one another, as we personally experienced when we returned a beloved three-year-old child to Hashem. During that difficult time, our home became a pilgrimage site for everyone in the community. It was an overwhelming feeling, like one big supportive family. When my dad saw this, he emotionally said, 'Mashiach will start his path to redemption from here...' It made me understand why Hashem led us to Panama City."

What kind of educational institutions do you have there?

"My oldest children studied at the 'Academy', a religious school with separate classes for boys and girls, where I also teach. Ten years ago, they opened a Talmud Torah and a Beit Yaakov for girls, along with small and large yeshivot for boys. My older son continued his yeshiva studies in Bnei Brak, and the other is about to enroll in a yeshiva in Israel. I hope the COVID-19 situation will improve by Elul, so he can go to the yeshiva in Israel. Two of my daughters went to continue their studies at a seminary in Israel; one is now married, thank God, to a Panamanian young man and living in Israel. Another daughter studied at the seminary and now teaches at the community's Beit Yaakov school here. During the coronavirus period, we brought all our children home, making it feel like 'pieces of Israel' are with us. When we heard that the airport in Israel might close, we hastened to change their flights so they could join us for the Passover Seder. They are still here due to the pandemic."

What's your daily routine like?

"Right now, during the coronavirus crisis, we're all at home, and the daily routine has been disrupted, but we hope to return to normal soon, God willing. Typically in the morning, the children leave for school around seven, using private transportation provided by their schools. The schools are relatively close by. Sometimes my son even walks home from the yeshiva, just about a 20-minute walk. I leave shortly after the children, heading to teach at the high school, covering religious studies, such as *Navi*, laws, and Jewish concepts - the same curriculum taught in Israel. I return home by one o'clock, first calling my children who are in Israel at yeshivot and seminaries, considering the eight-hour time difference. Later, I handle cooking, shopping, household chores, and lesson planning. Occasionally, I listen to lectures on Hidabroot. The daughters return around four-thirty, do homework after eating, and the sons come home around seven-thirty. My husband gets back later from teaching at the yeshiva and giving private lessons at a study hall in our synagogue, which is full of holy books."

"We all eat a home-cooked dinner together - it's our main shared meal. Here in Panama, the day starts early and ends early - school prayers begin by 7:45 AM, and by about 9 PM, the streets are mostly empty, as everyone heads home to sleep early."

"On Sundays, the girls have school off, while the boys learn only religious studies for half a day. It's a light and family-oriented day. Sometimes we go for a short trip, have a barbecue in the yard, or head to the building's pool. Almost every building has one; you just have to ensure the neighbors aren't using it simultaneously. We might also drive to the beach, which is just an hour away, to enjoy the waves and visit the beachfront synagogue."

How do you celebrate Shabbat?

"Preparations for Shabbat start on Wednesday, when I do the groceries. On Thursday, I prepare salads, and on Friday, I cook the rest and set the Shabbat table. Normally, I have a housekeeper, as it's quite affordable to employ one here. She helps daily from 8 AM to 5 PM, cleaning according to my instructions. The houses are big, thank God, making her assistance essential, especially when my children were younger. However, due to the pandemic, she hasn't come for two months now. Initially, I was worried about managing the housework myself, especially with Passover cleaning. Surprisingly, I don't miss having her around. My children are at home, helping effectively, and together we cleaned for Passover and continue to do Shabbat cleaning, keeping the house neat and organized without extra help."

"During Shabbat, the atmosphere turns festive. I light the candles, say the prayers, and watch, through the window, the Jewish community coming together in unity and love for prayers. The synagogue is very close by, and I find this sight moving every week. Unfortunately, the synagogue now stands empty due to the pandemic, a distressing view of a desolate street without worshippers."

View from another window at the Muafra home, showing an empty street

"On Shabbat morning, before *Shacharit* prayers, my husband learns with the children at the synagogue. During the prayer services, he also supervises them. The community comes together for the Shabbat afternoon meal in the synagogue, where the Rabbi delivers a Torah lesson, and my husband oversees the children's learning. At the same time, a women's gathering takes place in the synagogue's women's section. Usually, I stay home with my daughters, but sometimes I join the synagogue prayers. Thankfully, most community members observe Shabbat properly, making it a joyful and fulfilling experience."

What's the weather like now?

"It's summer here year-round. Temperatures are typically above 30 degrees Celsius, with minor seasonal variations. Summertime brings a nice breeze, and the rainy season isn't too stormy. It's never too hot or too cold."

"As we enter the rainy season, there's no need for coats; an umbrella suffices for the rain. The children wear short sleeves year-round, and there's no wardrobe switch for winter or summer clothes. We continue wearing the same attire and even visit the pool all year round."

Are Jews involved in government policies?

"Jews have close relations with the government but don't control it. However, if the government needs assistance, the Jewish community is ready to help, especially financially. The president maintains good relations with the Jewish community and respects us. We know that he has Jewish roots; unfortunately, his grandfather, a Jewish *Kohen*, assimilated. Recently, during the coronavirus outbreak, the president asked the Jewish community to pray to the Creator for an end to the pandemic, a moving acknowledgment that even the non-Jews recognize who can truly help."

Do you experience antisemitism?

"The Panamanian people are generally kind and allow us to practice our religion freely. There's no antisemitism here, thank God. In recent years, many Muslim Arabs have moved to Panama, but they aren't present in our Jewish neighborhood."

How do you prepare for Lag B'Omer?

"In regular years, the children joyfully organize a Lag B'Omer bonfire. While street bonfires aren't common here, the yeshiva hosts a cheerful gathering in the yard, with families coming together to celebrate with dance and song in honor of Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai. There's another bonfire on the school's spacious grounds for all students and teachers. This year, I don't know if or where we'll have a bonfire; we hope for miracles that the pandemic will end by then."

"On Shavuot, the community gathers, with men learning all night at the synagogue. A righteous woman oversees providing dairy cakes and goodies for the learners, financed by the community. Her home becomes a hub for women to learn and say *Tehillim*. In recent years, Beit Yaakov teachers have arranged special lessons in our stairwell - a small hall where girls gather for holiday classes. Will they be able to learn together this year? Only Hashem knows. May Hashem's salvation come swiftly."

Idit's daughter at her wedding, with her father and her joyful groom

Have you visited Israel, and when? What was your impression?

"It's been a while since my last visit to Israel. After the hardship of losing our child, we were blessed to go to the Holy Land for two consecutive years. These trips revived us after our grief. I felt they reawakened my spirit. In 2013, we rented an apartment in Jerusalem's Har Nof neighborhood, on HaKablan Street, the same building as Rabbi Ovadia Yosef ztz"l, where my husband and children had the privilege of praying with him."

"We delighted in the beautiful view of Jerusalem from our window and went to pray at the Western Wall, Rachel's Tomb, the Tomb of the Patriarchs, the Ari's Tomb, and more resting places of our righteous forebearers. It was a thrilling and spiritually uplifting experience. We almost daily visited the Western Wall, reminiscing on Israel's rich history. We also toured Ein Gedi, Masada, and the Dead Sea."

Something you can't get there?

"Thank God, we have everything here with excellent kosher supervision. The community is served by God-fearing slaughterers, providing glatt kosher meat and poultry. We also have kosher wine for Shabbat, *chalav Yisrael* milk, and even kosher cheese. However, my daughters miss the pizza from Israel... They insist all Israeli food tastes better."

A story that could only happen here

"The coronavirus pandemic is intimidating here, and we're mostly indoors, counting people at store entrances and experiencing online learning. My son-in-law learns via phone study sessions with his *chavruta* in Israel. Our communal Rabbi, Rabbi David Peretz, urged everyone to stay home unless absolutely necessary. If leaving for groceries, only one family member should go, at most every two weeks."

"An unusual directive from the president: men can only leave home for necessities on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, while women can only do so on Sundays, Mondays, and Wednesdays. Although our infection rate is about a third of Israel's, the death toll here is nearly equal, suggesting a high mortality rate relative to infections. God's special protection over Israel is evident. Thankfully, we haven't heard of fatalities or severe cases among the Jewish community here, bless God. We're all praying for healing and salvation for all those affected."